Taste of Lisboa’s Campo De Ourique tour is a great introduction to the neighbourhood. The starting point is the Mercado de Campo de Ourique, where a lesson on regional produce and seafood in season is followed by samplings of surprisingly elegant canned fish. Return to the market later in the day for a full meal at specialty spots as Alhos E Bugalhos (traditional Portuguese snacks), Atalho (a local legend from the 1930s re-launched in 2013), Carnalentejana (Alentejo region-inspired burgers), and Carpacceria (ceviche and fish dishes).
Flagrante Delitro, in a courtyard adjoining the Casa Fernando Pessoa museum, presents a modern take on Portuguese appetizers and homespun one-pot dishes along with wines that play up the mix of bright and earthy flavours. Highlights include bacalhau fritters, pork tapas, and soups.
Bolo de Chocolate by Carlos Braz Lopes boasts “the world’s best chocolate cake,” evidenced by a proliferation of locations in Spain, Brazil, Australia, Macau and Angola. However, this flourless symphony of textures in mousse, meringue and ganache is best enjoyed at this tiny location just off the market, with a strong cup of coffee. Ask if there is a special limited edition available crafted with seasonal fruit.
Simply Does It
Neighbourhood restaurants are distinctive, with menus focusing on just a few ingredients. Pigmeu (roughly translating to “from nose to tail”) emphasizes pork’s versatility in sandwiches and salads that showcase 12-hour cooked suckling pig, shredded, roasted, or in a pâté, depending on what accompanying ingredients are in season. Non-pork eaters will appreciate items featuring mushrooms. Meanwhile, Moules & Beer brings the flavours of Belgium to the table with a generous selection of craft brews and mussels in savoury sauces.